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On how to rezz a Razor DeathAdder mouse ..

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#1
The_Silencer

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Right now no idea, that's why I do open this new one.

 

I've a Razer DeathAdder with the scroll wheel apparently pretty screwed up... the wheel does not scrolls. Additionally the left button sends 2 click events instead of one (which should be the normal thing). It's a pity because ut's a very solid, consistent and good gamer mouse.

 

I don't tell ya about what sh!tty mouse I'm running at this moment to play HAWKEN. Well, I got one in a hurry for some few euro bucks here.. lol =)

 

So due that there's time to completely screw up my mouse while trying to rezz it... do you guys have any procedure to give it a try and hopefully get it fixed?

 

 

Update:

 

After throwing the mouse 2 times against a wall (making it to fall on a bed everytime though) I got the following positive results:

 

Right now, I get the 3 side (up, roght and left) click in the wheel part working. The wheel seems to be working more or less while scrolling but it looks like pretty displaced to the left..

 

Any ideas and/or any similar experience there at your end?

 

Thanks in advance or just thanks for your visit in here.


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The difference between theory and practice is smaller in theory than it is in practice.


#2
CrimsonKaim

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I think my DeathAdder is older than yours. My MMB can only scroll and has one click function (no left or right). 

 

In your case, I'd open it and look for screwed up parts and replace them (such as a broken screw).

 

 

Additionally, update the drivers. I doubt it has a connection but still, you don#t want to play with your DeathAdder to recognize in the end that it was a software problem. 

This only excludes a software issue.

 

 

Good luck.


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- Sitting next to the sound box in Last Eco -


#3
MechFighter5e3bf9

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inside the wheel is a tiny thin plastic ring with tiny holes, these holes need to be clear for IR light to pass



#4
The_Silencer

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What's the safer way to open it, what do you use or how you did it the first time?

 

Call me cautious if you wish .. =)


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The difference between theory and practice is smaller in theory than it is in practice.


#5
MechFighter5e3bf9

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there will likely be a screw or two under it or under a boot or sticker but mostly its held together by snaps you must force open carefully, some mice are glued to strengthen them



#6
wolfrock

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I had the same problem with my 2013. The switches are susceptible to getting dirty and registering more clicks than you'd like.

 

If it's under the 2 year warranty, use that. If you want to DIY, you can pull open the top panel of the mouse at the seam to access the switches.

 

The panel is one piece of plastic with deep moulded clips 1-2cm or so from the outer edge. Start by pulling the right side of the panel off until the clip gives a little, then work your way to the back of the panel. Do the same on the other side. The top panel should pop off, giving you access to the switches.

 

Clean the exposed surfaces by removing visible dirt / cat hair with a swab. This prevents more crud from getting into the switches during the next step.

 

Spray 99% isopropyl alcohol into the affected switches while clicking them constantly. A dropper or syringe will also work well. The fluid plus clicking will move residue around and hopefully off the switch. 99% dries very fast so it's worth the slightly higher price. Don't use 70%. I've done this to get dirt out of the inside of a Canon 40D camera shutter switch and now these switches.

 

If you have contact cleaner, use that instead, it's made for this purpose.

 

Wait until fully dry and test. Repeat cleaning if needed while the panel is off.

 

The alcohol will remove a lot of lubricant that might be in the switches so if you want, use Cali Lube (used for electronic knobs and sliders, like in a mixer) or similar non-greasy electronics lube when you're done.

 

Removing the panel is the hardest part. I used my (short) fingernails covered in tissue and ridiculous grip strength. A credit card or something stiffer might work. I hate using metal screwdrivers to pull plastic panels off, they cause too much damage.

 

I like using the mouse but having to do this in less than 1 year is not great. My MS mouse from over 10 years ago is far more reliable (i.e., perfect)  and one of the best old mice you could use for gaming.

 

Good luck, pilot.


Edited by wolfrock, 03 July 2015 - 08:31 PM.

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G2R is viable.

#7
CrimsonKaim

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What's the safer way to open it, what do you use or how you did it the first time?

 

Call me cautious if you wish .. =)

 

Google is your friend.

 

"open deathadder"

 

1st result: 

 

 

 

:P


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#8
The_Silencer

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Hey guys,

thanks for your hints, tips and related sources. Much appreciated. ;)

 

I've been busy during the weekend (biking 35Km. plus pretty long et cetera) so I'm gonna give it a try tomorrow as final round. Or I break it at all or I fix it; damn it!

 

If goes well then I'll let you know. If the thing goes the wrong way (device not properly working or taking my nerves somehow too much..)  then I'll probably throw it to the wall at high speed and for the last time... bits and pieces.. you know..

 

 

In case the whole thing unfortunately ends up a la case 2 then..

 

What mouse would you suggest to me with same features and costs to basically play HAWKEN?  =)

 

Thanks again. ;)


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The difference between theory and practice is smaller in theory than it is in practice.





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